Question. Our crape myrtle shrub is sprouting vigorous shoots from the base. Do we cut these off?

Answer. Unless you want a shrub or small tree with additional trunks, these shoots from the base, often called suckers, can be removed at any time. Actually, the sooner the better as the growths utilize nutrients other crape myrtle portions could be using. At this time you can also trim off entangled branches and errant growths.

Q. We planted a pineapple guava in April that lost lots of leaves but is still growing. It hasn’t bloomed. Does it need fertilizer?

A. Be thankful your plant made it through the establishment period as there are many perils that could cause it to decline. The biggest problem early on when plants are trying to root into the surrounding soil is a dry root ball or too little moisture to wet the planting site. These can both cause leaf loss and slow growth.

Now that your pineapple guava is making growth, keep it moist and do a spring, early summer and early fall fertilizer application. Any slow-release product made for trees and shrubs would be fine. As to the flowering concern, they are slow bloomers. It is common for the shrubs or tree forms to take five to seven years to produce the first blooms and even longer to bear fruits. Pollination is normally by bees or birds but you can do it by hand with a small paint brush when blooms are present.

Q. Several types of vines are creeping over shrubs and up trees in our landscape. What is the best way to get them under control?

A. Out-of-control vines are common this time of the year as they make lots of summer growth. Some include the tropical yam, balsam pear, skunk vine, Virginia creeper and wild grape. All can completely cover shrubs and trees. Regretfully if they are intertwined with desirable plantings they have to be severed near the ground and let shrivel or be pulled from the plantings. Brush killers available from garden centers can be used to eliminate vines but affect anything that is sprayed. Some products do have instructions for treating stems and cut ends of unwanted plants to control vines growing among desired trees and shrubs.

Q. I always seem to bury my vegetable seeds too deep and don’t get good germination. How does one know how deep to cover the seeds?

A. As one who had this problem years ago I am in total sympathy. My rule now is the more shallow the better. Seed packets can be used as a guide but Florida soils seem to swallow seeds. Often planting guides suggest sowing seeds too deep and the shoots struggle to reach the surface. I find it best to cover the seeds about once their thickness and they normally have no trouble germinating. The larger the seed the thicker the soil covering. But even with thick seeds like squash, beans cucumbers and corn, a half inch of soil is adequate. Do note some seeds do not want a covering and will be adequately covered by the first watering.

Q. An old ligustrum planted by a builder has grown large and too close to the house. Can it be pruned to remove most of the green at this time of the year to reduce the height and width?

A. Healthy ligustrums can withstand severe pruning most of the year. The only time you might avoid is when severe cold weather is expected within the next month or two. Try selectively removing the portions back to a branch angle, bud or trunk to help maintain a good plant shape. Most plants are going to start new growth within weeks at this time of the year. Do keep your pruned ligustrum moist and apply a feeding when new growth is noted.

Q. I have a pineapple that is ready to be removed from the parent plant. Do I need to remove the plant or will it produce another fruit?

A. A quick removal is not necessary, but the original plant that bore the fruit gradually declines. By the time you notice the leaves turning a yellow to brown color new shoots should develop to take their place.

After removing the fruit, pineapple plants begin to decline. (Amy Beth Bennett / South Florida Sun Sentinel)

Often the number of new shoots is excessive and gardeners can remove a few to transplant and increase the fruit-producing collection. If needed to keep the planting attractive, portions of the older plant could be pruned away as they decline.

Q. Our Hawaiian ti plants have grown tall and thin during the summer. Can I cut them back and will they bush out again?

A. Ti plants, which are dracaena relatives with large colorful leaves, add the tropical look to homes and landscapes. The leaves are often almost solid red to a blend of green, yellow and red colors depending on the variety. They can grow to more than 5 feet tall gradually losing their bottom leaves which makes them a bit lanky looking.

Feel free to take the pruners to these plants anytime during the warmer months when they produce the best growth. If major pruning is needed, it’s probably best to do it soon so the plants have enough warm weather left to form new bushes before the cold returns. The shoots removed can be rooted to increase your collection or share with friends. Ti plants are very cold sensitive so do expect normal decline during the winter. Spring pruning is then needed to remove the damaged portions

Tom MacCubbin is an urban horticulturist emeritus with the University of Florida Cooperative Extension Service. Write him: Orlando Sentinel, P.O. Box 2833, Orlando FL 32802. Email: TomMac1996@aol.com. Blog with Tom at OrlandoSentinel.com/tomdigs.